“Rene Boivin Joaillier” 1994 CAILLES, Francoise (SOLD) The Cary Collection

CAILLES, Francoise

[399] pp.

Les Editions De L’Amateur

1994

12 3/4″ x 9 1/2″

To quote the Primavera Gallery, “René Boivin was thus introduced to the world of high fashion and all those associated with it, from the creators to the clients.

His jewellery quickly reflected this influence, becoming rich, elegant and elaborate in the taste of the late 19th century.

Rene and his very talented wife Jeanne began collaborating on the designs of the now established jewelry house, and their jewels were soon drawing attention for their daring and innovative designs, which explored ideas from the new abstract styles coming out of Cubism and the emerging Art Deco esthetic.

The house of Boivin was among the most innovative in their designs, and their workmanship was impeccable.

While their designs were strongly reflective of what was happening in fashion and the decorative arts, they were interpreters, and not imitators. Among their best-known designs were many first introduced by Suzanne Belperron, who favored the use of geometrically carved rock crystal, citrine, and colored agates.

Their Art Deco designs were among the most innovative of the fine jewelry houses. In the 1930’s, Boivin’s designs were increasingly inspired by Naturalism, and the House of Boivin attracted great attention with jewels based on sea creatures, animals, fruits and flowers.

Among the most famous are the “Star fish”, and the “Chamelion”, which could be transformed by pressing a small lever to change its colors.

When Jeanne Boivin died in 1959, the house was taken over by Louis Girard, who continued to produce many of the earlier designs, adapting them as necessary to changes in fashion. In April of 1991, the house of Boivin was purchased by the Asprey Group. They continued to produce excellent jewelry, run by M. Bernard for many years.

After the take-over of the Asprey Group by Prince Jaffry, brother of the Sultan of Brunei, there were many changes, and they were not for the better. Soon after, the great house of Boivin was closed forever.